The twin-bedded room had an en-suite bathroom, with shower and lashings of hot water (the best I’ve experienced in my 10 years of visiting India!) – fluffy white towels wrapped in tissue paper, with ayurvedic soap and shampoo provided, as well as a box of tissues. A daily English language paper arrived under the door each morning, and the sheets and towels were changed daily and the room cleaned. I had a choice of an air-conditioned or non a/c room. Each room has a TV, internal phone and a large plate of fresh fruit was put in the room every day.
Exploring what would be home for the next 2 weeks, I went out into the neat and tidy garden to find the eco-friendly yoga and meditation hut, built on stilts with a roof and only one wall; a small retreat hut and a little cottage (Parnasala – typical Keralan hut), right on the edge of the water – great for getting away from it all. It’s an idyllic place.
I spent some time with the lady doctor, who asked me questions and took my blood pressure, listened to my heart and, oh dear, weighed me too. Afterwards, the doctor said that she wanted me to leave there relaxed, rejuvenated and a little thinner! I knew I would.
A separate building at the side of the home was the dining area (Oottupura). All very clean, with dishes of food and plates (lined with a banana leaf), always covered in cling film. The place was very hygienic and clean, and the food was always served with a smile.
My first treatment was a powder massage (Udwarthanam) – which continued for 7 days – this being a full body massage with hot medicated powder which depletes fat and reduces the tummy. It lasted an hour and was wonderfully exhilarating and relaxing all at the same time!
Each morning I had a call from reception to go for yoga , and as someone who can’t even sit cross-legged, I was slightly apprehensive! But it was a gentle introduction and I found, especially after 2 weeks, my body and mind really benefitted from the stretching and breathing exercises.
Sometimes it was a bit of a struggle to get up at 6am for yoga, but it was always worth it. The air is still at that time, the sky looks pale and the water is still, just the gentle movement of the coconut trees waving. Bird song breaks the silence, with occasionally a faint sound of Indian music wafting over the water from the houses over the river. The sun comes up, a fiery ball, and I love this quiet time of day, and after yoga, I found I wanted to stay on there, soaking up the stillness and beauty of the morning. It was a spiritual experience too. Or I would go and sit on the balcony, observing a group of 6 green parrots flying between the coconut trees, listen to the deafening bird song or watch a local woman gently lead her cow to a fresh bit of pasture. After yoga, Jeeja, one of the therapists, brought me fresh coconut milk to drink through a straw from the actual coconut.
I love this place – the peace and tranquillity – no traffic noise or pollution.
Breakfast should be the biggest meal of the day according to ayurveda, and I always enjoyed the delicious south Indian food. At lunchtime (a medium meal), a range of curries was supplemented by rice and poppodom crisps, as well as a fruit smoothie. Dinner time was a scaled-down version of lunch, and served with nice rotis (bread). I was always amazed at the variety and great textures and flavours created from the same vegetarian ingredients (but they have so much great stuff in India) and a variety of spices.
The second day I was given a daily schedule of treatments, tailor-made for my requirements, together with a list of evening entertainments and events. One of the evenings early on in my time there was an evening trip on a houseboat – along the river at the side of the home – peaceful and green with hundreds of coconut trees. The boat didn’t have a motor, so as not to pollute the water – in keeping with the whole ethos of the place. In fact there’s none of the usual plastic here usually found in India, only all-natural materials. Watching the sun go down in such beautiful surroundings, was memorable.
Each morning my treatment consists initially of Siro Abhyangam – a head and face massage with medicated oils. This treatment improves concentration, memory power, prevents hair fall, tones up the skin, and reduces wrinkles. This is followed by Thakradhara – medicated buttermilk poured across my forehead and upper head. Thakradhara is a powerful relaxation therapy for head and mind, commonly used to treat insomnia, depression and stress related problems. Lying on the treatment couch, the cooling medicated buttermilk is suspended above me in a copper bowl with a hole in, and then gently poured in a continuous flow, across my forehead and hair line in a steady trickle. This was very relaxing, and lasted an hour, and this procedure took place over 7 consecutive days.
This treatment was then followed by Udwarthanam (as above). I was then showered and had my hair washed.
I usually had 3 treatments in the morning and one or two in the afternoon. After all the treatments, I always felt incredibly sleepy, so went back to my room for a lie-down.
Over dinner, there were invariably interesting chats with the lady doctor, and we were able to ask her any questions we had. I learnt all sorts of information, including the knowledge that turmeric rubbed on a cut, will heal it, and it clots the blood. That honey is good for wounds, and grapes good for the eyes. In between treatments, I managed to do a lot of reading and just generally relaxed.
I find it a friendly and quiet place, and I really trust all the therapists here, who work so hard, and I appreciate all they do for me. Sometimes, after treatments, I have felt very emotional – but this is all part of it.
About half way through my stay I had a steam treatment (Ksheeradhooman) which involves medicated steam (from a mixture of milk and medicated herbs). This tones facial nerves and muscles. The steam was used on my face, breathed through my nostrils, and a short time of steaming my tongue. It lasted half an hour, and really cleared my head. I found myself remembering long-forgotten things.
I visited the nearby elephant sanctuary one evening and saw many elephants used in Temple ceremonies, and spotted a kingfisher too. One evening I visited the Golden Beach, only 10 minutes away. Here I had a paddle, and ate hot peanuts from a newspaper cone bought by the junior doctor as we walked along the beach, feeling refreshed by the exhilarating sea breeze, great after the heat of the day. A particularly enthralling scene was of the colourful fishing boats coming up onto the shore with their catch.
We had several interesting talks on the principles of ayurveda, panchakarma and yoga, and I took loads of notes. The evening entertainment included a group of musicians, and even though all the power went because of a storm, they all kept playing in the darkness. This event took place in the yoga hut, and the wonderful music and spectacular thunder and lightning made it feel quite different from the place where I watched the birds and the little squirrels chasing on the lawn at 6am for yoga!
In the second week a new treatment is introduced – an application of ‘bouls’ made of herbal powder and rice, applied as a full body massage (Spl. Pindaswedam), which I have for 4 days. This lasts one hour and involves herbal powder tied up in cotton, soaked and heated in hot oil and applied in vigorous movements. This treatment is effective for rejuvenation and weight loss. I felt fantastic afterwards.
One night a cookery class was held, where we were shown how to make a delicious curry, which we all tasted afterwards. The next night we had a wonderfully uplifting evening of classical Indian dancers, with the girls having studied for 5 years, with 3 more years to go. Splendid costumes and very talented performers.
Another new treatment in the second week is Thalapothichil, a head pack with a paste of medicinal herbs applied to the scalp for 30-45 minutes. I had this treatment for 7 days, and it is good for insomnia, premature greying and other problems related to the scalp and hair, and for mental tension.
One of the last treatments was a full body massage with oil, followed by a steam bath (Abhyangam with steam). It’s a sweating therapy that helps the body expel toxins, and each treatment lasted an hour, and I had it for 4 days.
I love massages, so this fortnight was great – I thought I had died and gone to heaven!
By the end of the 2 weeks, I had lost a stone in weight and felt restored in body, mind and spirit. I returned home relaxed, with a strong mind and a strong body. And that grey in my hair has gone!
Can’t wait to go again!’ |
